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Fuel Pump Noise, Car Dies...Help

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While driving down a road 8/16, all of a sudden
my 59 BT7 shut off and I was coasting. I pulled
over, restarted the car and was able to go a quarter mile more, same thing happened, the car gradually died.

I noticed when I turned the ignition key on that the fuel pump (which was getting gas from a full gas tank) was clicking very rapidly and the clicking did not dissipate. After having the car towed home, the car started today, but the wild clicking noise that I am accustomed to hearing only for five seconds before startup is perpetual. I did not run it long.

Can you all shed some light on a first week,
first time healey owner's situation?

Thanks in advance

Will

[ 08-17-2002: Message edited by: will the thrill ]</p>
 
Sounds like you need to rebuild or replace that (AUA172) fuel pump. Sometimes a good rap with a open end wrench
rolleyes.gif
will fix it. Don't laugh, it works some times.

cheers.gif
Brad
 
Used to work for me too, but this doesn't sound like the points are sticking. It seems as if the pump won't stop running, and the trouble is, you can only hit it for so long before you have to replace it or repair it anyway.

It wouldn't hurt to try the "hit it with a metal object" method of car repair. As Brad points out, that can often shock the pump into working properly again, and it was an old "get you home" trick employed to great effect on several of my cars. It wouldn't hurt to invest in a new fuel pump in any case, then you can rebuild the old one. Never hurts to carry a spare.
 

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having just gone thru a few fuel pumps myself, check the vent on your gas cap. Next time the pump acts up, remove the gas cap, if you get a rush of air, the vent is clogged. Condensation rusts up the hole.
You may also have an air leak in one of the hoses from the tank to the pump causing the pump to loose it's prime.
The diaphram on your pump may be going south.
If you have a late model replacement pump with a plastic diaphram, throw it out and get a real one.

If it's ticking, it's working, if it's noisy, it's sucking air. that's where you should be looking.

Good luck
Frank
 
All of the above posts may be the problem. But before spending big bucks for a fuel pump, look first for a fuel filter somewhere in the fuel line. Replace that inexpensive item first. Also check the gas cap, as was mentioned. Good Luck.
Johnny, 59BN7
smile.gif
 
I sincerely appreciate the help you all are for this rookie

8/18 I replaced the fuel filter on the gas line.

The old filter was old and full of residue and junk. The fuel filter still clicks fast and repeatedly, but the car runs well (albeit I haven't taken it on a 100 mile trip yet).

Is the fast ticking possibly acceptable?

I will check the gas cap.

THe fuel pump definitely pumps fuel and there are no fuel leaks in the garage, does this mean that there are also no air leaks in the metal line between the fuel pump and the gas tank.

Thanks so much for all the advice and perspective

Will
 
Hi Will,

If there are no leaks or overflows and the fuel pump is running on, I think it's time to disassemble the fuel pump and check the diaphram. Most likely it is slightly torn or something clogged and not able to hold pressure and just continues to run. With the fuel lines disconnected from the pump you can also check the line going to the fuel tank. Fuel should flow freely from the tank or else you may have crud or something blocking in the tank (the dirty fuel filter tells me you have this problem to some degree). I have two fuel filters on my car, one in front of the fuel pump and one in front of the carbs.

cheers.gif
John
 
A very good string of comments precede mine. However, I must add my two cent's worth: With a Healey, nothing gets better on its own. If it is rapidly clicking, something is not right and it will only get worse at the worst possible opportunity. I HIGHLY recommend finding out what is wrong and correcting it. If nothing else, rapid clicking will prematurely age your fuel pump points. Good luck! Steve
 
If you have no leakage, you are getting fuel flow, and the gas cap isn't the problem, you probably have junk in the pump check valves, especially if teh filter was full. There are a couple of rudimentary check valves on the inlet and outlet of the pump, which means having to take apart the pump body.

I have one of the glass filters on the pump inlet to keep junk out of the pump and a finer filter after the pump to keep the carbs clean.

Good Luck,
John
cheers.gif
 
Will: First, be sure what type of fuel pump you have in your Healey. If it is the normal SU fuel pump, it should not run constantly like you are hearing here. My first Healey long ago exhibited that problem, but had a different pump [an AC pump, if I remember correctly] fitted. Since I 'knew' it shouldn't run constantly, I tried to repair it following the instructions for the SU pump in the manual and destroyed that fuel pump when there was probably nothing wrong with it! I had to buy and SU pump and replace the one I destroyed. AL Bradley
 
Will...I had the same problem with my first 67 Healey years many ago (in fact when I owned my first Healey in the late 60's and early 70's)...you have a fuel pump problem...and that ticking noise should not be going on at all...that's why your car stopped...you more than likely are going to have to rebuild it if not repair it...I won't go on any long trips if I were you...because until you fix it properly that stalling will happen again...better safe than sorry...I clean the filter and did everything everyone else has suggested to you...it's only a temporary stop gap...I won't recommend hitting anything unless it's a golf ball or softball...again that doesn't solve the problem...your fuel pump is telling you something...it's saying..."fix me"...now you just have to listen...
 

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Hello Will,
Basically the rate an S.U. fuel pump ticks is proportional to load. Usually a fast tick indicates an empty tank and no fuel to pump.
However, in your case, that is not the reason, so a partial air leak on the suction side or a faulty check valve will also do the same. With the suction line disconnected, block the inlet union with a thumb and (ignition on) you should feel suction and the pump stop ticking. If it continues to tick then it is probably the check valve.(Hitting the pump is only effective if it is stuck and not ticking.)
Basically it is a solenoid operated diaphragm pump which stops when either the inlet or outlet
is closed and pumps like crazy when there is nothing in the way, as in no fuel, or a defective check valve. If there is a stuck float valve and fuel it will pump fairly quickly but it will sound to be under load.
I hope that is of some help.
Alec

hammer.gif
hammer.gif
 
Your replies have all been very helpful. I have the new pump ordered, but I am interested in rebuilding the old one for a back up since it has only been used for 3000 miles

Does anyone have any leads on where I could send it to have it rebuilt or is there a way to do it myself -- novice here.

Thanks

Will
 
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