Battery Drain

[vping]

Howdy everyone. First time poster here well first time in forever. Been swamped with MG projects, house projects, kids, work....it never ends.

Anyway, I redid an engine and engine bay and everything went quite well. Problem is that now the battery dies overnight. All worked before and everything went back together as original.

So I hooked up the test light and pulled each fuse. Test light did not go out. I disconnected the lead to the alternator and it the light went out. Is this a sign that the alternator is bad?

What else could it be causing the drain?

Cheers
Vince

Here's are some shots of one of my latest projects.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Yes, diode pack is bad, most likely. Got one shorted. Either get the bits and fix it yourself or replace it.

 

[DrEntropy]

VINNY!!!

Geez! I thought ya abandon'd us!

TOC hit it in one. Ya got a bad diode in the alternator, most likely.

Simple answer is to replace it. A more measured way is to use your VOM and (isolating the diodes in the bridge by cutting their connections) testing each one 'til ya find the burned one(s).

Glad you're back, BTW. :thumbsup:

 

[drooartz]

Can't speak to the electrical issue, but that engine bay looks nice and shiny. You can come over here any time and to mine.

 

[CZ_Dave]

Your the 2nd one to use a copper pipe in the bay.
Clean engine bay, nice detailing
Gives me ideas on some work I have planned
in the future.

Cheers!

 

[vping]

Never left Doc. I try and look around here every now and again and see how Ya'll are doin'.

Projects like this engine/engine bay have been keeping me really busy. Lets just say all you guys gave me my wings and I learned to fly. I'm having fun and making a few on the side. Keeps my hobby moving along a little but my cars are like the cobblers kids.

I've been working on a TD which is quite an engineering feat for me. It's about 99% complete so there will be more info. to follow. I was also just asked to restore a TC for a club member who's '65 B I just worked on. On top of that I am in the midst of a few engine builds. If I did not have to work 60 hours a week at my regular job, I might actually be able to get some work done

I kind of assumed it was the diode pack but wanted confirmation.

Anyone need a bay like this.... come on down.

 

[Deleted member 8987]

I don't have the boxes with part numbers anymore, but the diode set and regulator assembly set me back exactly twenty bucks, including taxes.
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29060
#41 is the rectifier (diode) set, 42 is the regulator. Best to remove your alternator (the polished one is off now, right?), pull the plastic cover, remove the brushes one at a time (flat pieces, 2 screws each, dead centre) and check them for wear, put them back for now with all the proper connections so you don't get confused, make a wiring diagram (mine had a 2-wire regulator, got a "new" one, wiring was totally different) so you know how it goes together, if your new regulator is different than the old one, message me and I'll walk you through it. To give you an idea, my old one, one wire to each brush, case bolted to housing (grounded), new one, regulator had two tabs fit into plastic brush holder (isolated from ground), one wire (whitish) to brush closest to rectifier, one to ground, and a jumper strap (missing in kit) to brush closest to regulator (made a jumper wire with eyelets) and to case at bolt holding it into top of plastic brush holder. Observe where the three filed wires are soldered (usually wrapped or at least bent over), use a solder sucker to remove solder, carefully pry up and remove wires, loosen bolt, you may have to remove brush holder to get the rectifier out, swap insulators, install rectifier and re-solder wires. Sounds harder than it is.
You may want to double your order and fix the spare.
Dave

 

[PAUL161]

Vince, Nice to know your still active. That's a great looking engine bay! Of course, we wouldn't expect any thing else. How's the TD coming? PJ

 

[vping]

Ahh one of my kids. The TD project has stalled because of all the other work. I pulled the engine to replace the wiring, engine and trans mounts. While it was out, I sent the trans to Quantum and he checked it out with and OK she's in good nic. While the engine was out, I decided to check a bearing. Turns out the engine was rebuilt at some point and is +.060". Seemed like a recent rebuild but when I checked the bearings the lead was fluffing off a bit, so I decided to swap them out. New head gasket, timing chain and gears, MOSS Cranks seal and speedy sleeve, you just the normal stuff Once I get her back in she'll be great. Lets see rebuilt one rear leaf spring and replaced all bushings. Started to rewire the car and then this other TD came into the picture for me to work on.

Plus more. Another local TD owner wanted me to fabricate and weld some patches on his TD parts, so I did. Did some sandblasting for someone else. More work on a '65 B for another, then the engine bay shown and I'm losing track.

Next up is a TC restoration, a Clutch job and I have 2 to 3 engine builds lined up.

Here is why the TD project has stalled. What can I say, I like helping people out with their projects.

 

[Bruce74B]

What does the idiot light do? Mine has been on for over a year, but the car runs OK. The battery only dies after sitting for a long time. I had the alternator checked at one of the chain parts stores and she said it was bad, but the manager came over to check and it worked OK for him. At one point the light would come on when everything was turned off, but went out when I turned on the ignition switch...opposite of what it should do. Now, it just seems to come on most of the time, but runs OK for short trips, at least.

Should I pull it and check it again? I don't have equipment or knowledge to test the bits.

Bruce

 

[PAUL161]

Well Vince, it's easy to see your very busy with other projects. But you have to take time to drop in once in a while and say hello! :thumbsup: PJ